Conquer Your Kitchen

Celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck reveals his 5 secrets for mastering any meal

 
Wolfgang Puck knows what it takes to succeed in Hollywood: 1,800 pounds of Dover sole, 1,200 Kumamoto oysters, 1,000 spiny lobsters, 500 pounds of smoked salmon, 40 pounds of caviar, 10 pounds of black truffles, and six Spanish hams. That’s what he served to more than 1,500 celebrity guests and film industry insiders at last February’s Governor’s Ball, the annual celebration immediately following the Oscars. It was his 17^th consecutive year catering the event, and the most recent critically acclaimed performance in a career that spans more than four decades, three continents, 16 books, and 100 restaurants and cafes. Which is why it comes as a bit of a surprise when the Austrian-born French chef lets slip one of his central culinary mantras: “Simple beats complicated every time.” We can eat to that.
We sat down with Puck as he was putting the final touches on his newest book (“It’s about food and fitness” is about all he’ll reveal before its Fall release) to learn what any man can do to sharpen his cooking skills. Heed his five kitchen commandments, and the results will speak for themselves: A healthier, tastier meal in half the time—and a fitter body for life.
1) Start SlowEven if you think you’ve got the chops to tackle a tough recipe, temper your ambition, says Puck. “It’s just like working out—you won’t become Arnold Schwarzenegger after a month in the gym.” And, to be honest, who really wants to cook like Conan? Much better to flex just enough culinary muscle to wow your guests with a medley of simple, pure flavors. “If you buy a fresh filet of fish, you don’t have to do much with it,” says Puck. “Just put it on the grill with some vegetables, add a little olive oil and some fresh basil, and you’ve got a wonderful meal.” Ditto for pasta. “Don’t bother making your own out of raw dough—just buy some good, dried pasta and follow a tried-and-true recipe, like penne a la vodka,” advises Puck. “Worry about adding your own flourishes—like roasted asparagus or salmon—once you nail the basics.”
2) Spice Things UpThe most versatile ingredients in any kitchen are a handful of fresh herbs. Puck recommends five to grow yourself: Rosemary, basil, thyme, mint, and kaffir lime. “Growing herbs like rosemary and basil are important for cooking chicken and roasted potatoes,” he says, adding that thyme and mint will not only flavor a dish, but also make great tea. “In addition, I have some kaffir lime trees in my backyard because the leaves work well in Thai-style dishes.”

3) Arm Yourself with the EssentialsUnless you’re hell bent on blowing 10 grand on, say, a sous vide cooker, a micro evaporator, and other ultra-modern appliances—the likes of which Puck doesn’t even have in his own kitchen—you can easily whip up an amazing meal with a few basic tools. “It’s important to have a set of pots and pans with thick, heavy bottoms so that when you sauté, heat is distributed evenly, and food doesn’t burn,” says Puck, adding that a grill griddle is a similarly helpful tool for amateur chefs because it allows for the easy regulation of temperature (and the avoidance of that most grave of culinary sins: overcooking). “A good corkscrew is also a smart thing to have handy,” adds Puck, only half-joking about its critical role in any meal: Lubricating the cook. (Click here for 13 more essential kitchen tools)

4) Know Where to ShopPerhaps the greatest mistake men make when shopping for food is loading up on too much at once—a habit that leads to spoiled food and large bellies, says Puck. “Instead, [and If your schedule allows] shop at a high-end market three times a week and buy less,” he says. “That way, no food goes to waste, and you’re not tempted to indulge in the overload of choices in your pantry.” Puck’s favorite market: Whole Foods, where “you know you’re getting really good ingredients.” But he also advocates shopping at farmer’s markets when they’re in season. “If it’s within your means, why not eat the best, locally grown ingredients you can afford?” says Puck. Check out localharvest.org to find a farmer’s market in your area.
5) Know What to Look ForWhen shopping at a farmer’s market, “inspect everything and buy organic whenever possible,” says Puck, who overhauled his menus in 2007 to include only natural, humanely raised food products. “Pesticides are to be avoided.” Why? As Puck sees it, pesticides undermine the most important goal of any meal: Strengthening the body.
If pesticides are to be avoided at all costs, freshness is to be desired above all else. Here’s what to look for in the produce aisle (or the farmer’s stall): The darkest cherries and strawberries, which are generally the sweetest. If they’re pinkish red, they’re too sour. Carrots and beets with their leaves intact. It’s a sign of freshness (leaves on rooted veggies are always the first part to rot away). Broccoli and corn with the greenest stems. Avoid any with brown highlights (a sign of spoilage). “Get to know the farmers who produce your food as well,” he says, adding that they can help you select the best fruits and vegetables. “At the end of the day, your health is the most important thing in your life.”

Wolfgang Puck's Best List
BEST INGREDIENTGinger. I use it all the time in cookies and candies to enhance their flavor, and even in tea as a soothing tonic to facilitate sleep.
BEST VEGETABLEAsparagus—either the large green variety or the white ones, which I import from Austria. Both are versatile ingredients in soups and salads, and are delicious warm or cold.

BEST FRUITRight now, it’s cherries or strawberries. But ask me in the fall, and it might be pears. To me, fruits and berries are very seasonal. I’d never think to eat a cherry pie in November or a pear tart in June. I like to experience them at their peaks.
BEST FISHLine-caught Atlantic turbot, which has a very rich flavor. I love to grill it on the bone on my charcoal grill, and serve it with the best olive oil I can find, as well as some lemon, basil, chopped parsley, and shallots, or an emulsified lemon fennel butter. It’s also a fish that’s very easy to filet when it’s cooked.

BEST MEATAmerican Waygu Kobe Beef from Snake River Farms in Idaho. It has the richness of Japanese beef with lots of marbling, but the flavor is more akin to what we’re used to in America. It’s best served medium rare to rare, and when it’s grilled over charcoal with a little sea salt and black pepper, there’s nothing better. You can give me a pound of the best Wagyu from Japan, or a pound of this, and I’ll choose this every time.

BEST CHEESEOne of my favorites is Saint-Marcellin—a rich, creamy cheese that I have when I go to Lyon, France. I love to enjoy it with a really good baguette.

BEST WINEI like Sauvignon Blanc with fish and salads—especially the one from Rochioli Vineyards. But my true favorite is Krug Champagne. I drink it with hors d’oeuvres, main courses, and even at end of dinner. It goes especially well with Chinese food.
BEST DESSERTKaiserschmarrn, a cross between a soufflé and a pancake. My mother used to make it once a week for dinner, and serve it with plum compote and a glass of milk. I thought that was the best meal ever. Eating it today still reminds me of my childhood in our little village in Austria. I actually don’t know where to get a real good Kaiser anymore, except at my restaurant Spago, in Beverly Hills. But I’m sure there must be other restaurants that serve this delicious dessert.

BEST FOOD CITYParis, by far. It has the variety. It has the biggest markets. It has everything, including style and elegance.


BEST COOKBOOKThe Big Fat Duck Cookbook by Heston Blumenthal. I love cookbooks that are done beautifully, just like a great dish. I think The Fat Duck makes you want to go into the kitchen and cook some of Blumenthal’s recipes right away.

BEST CHEFMy all-time favorite is Raymond Thuilier, whom I trained under in France. He was the complete package—a great chef, a great host, and great with customers. We’re in the hospitality business, and people often forget that. But they shouldn’t—food tastes better when it’s accompanied by great hospitality. As for living chefs, I have many that I admire, but my favorite from the last year is Blumenthal, because he has the perfect mélange of invention and taste, and his restaurant in England, also called The Fat Duck, is really fun.